Thanks for the mallet tip – works a charm. I hope this helps other people with similar problem! It has a built in circuit that “communicates” with the keypad circuit, and feeding voltage on those wires will not make the actuator work. Finally after researching online, I learned that if you use a rubber hammer and hammer the area where the actuator is more or less located, it will vibrate with the impact, and just like that, I kept pulling the handle until it opened, it took me no more than 30 seconds, …I ended up with a dent on the door, but got my documents out of the safe! After removing the inside panel from the door I also learned that the actuator cannot be manually powered at all.
#I cant get my h0100 sentry safe open code#
My code wouldn’t work, the factory code wouldn’t work, I tried just about everything from changing the batteries to insisting with the keypad, tried to reset the unit, …no luck, the circuit had gone bad. After punching in “any code”, I would get six beeps, and the red light would blink six times as well. I own a Sentry Safe A3867, and after replacing the batteries, I couldn’t get it opened anymore. I WISH I CAN PUT A FEW PICS UP HERE, BUT IF YOU NEED IT, HIT ME UP AND I CAN SEND THEM TO YOU. IT’S A LOT MORE THINNER SO LESS CHANCE OF BREAKING IT. TAKE YOUR TIME AND USE A BUTTER KNIFE TO PRY THE DOOR OPEN OR A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO REMOVE THE BACK PANEL WITHOUT BREAKING ANYTHING. MINES IS OPENING SMOOTHLY NOW AFTER I GREASED THE GEAR. YEAH, IT’S PLASTIC, BUT IF IT WAS GREASED UP, IT WOULDN’T BE SUCH A PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY. THAT’S WHY YOU HAVE TO USE A RUBBER MALLET TO LOOSEN THE GEAR. IT IS STUPID THAT SENTRY SAFE DOESN’T GREASE THE GEARS SO AFTER A WHILE, THE GEAR CAN GET STUCK. ONCE YOU HAVE THE DOOR OPEN, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS GREASE THE GEARS. THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THAT I AM DOING THIS, BUT I THOUGHT I HAD TO SHARE THIS INFORMATION TO EVERYONE. I AGREE THAT THIS SAFE IS MADE POORLY BY SENTRY SAFE, BUT IF YOU DON’T WANT TO BUY ANOTHER SAFE, DO THIS WHAT I’M ABOUT TO WRITE AND IT CAN LAST YOU A LOT LONGER. I guess if this safe is ever involved in a fire it will open automatically as all the parts melt! As you can see, these are all just cast parts, which means they are probably very soft metal. One of the comments to lighthouse’s post was by a guy who used his “saws-all” to cut through the pins. When I pried the back off, there was all kinds of plastic slag and crap sitting at the bottom on the ledge. So, if you need to whack your safe, you can see that the upper right (as you’re facing it) would be the place to smack. Looks like the actuator in the upper left is the source of the problem. Since I never did anything about my safe since I opened it last, I decided to pry the plastic cover off so I could see the innards and determine what to lube. So my son purchased a Sentry safe today and I warned him about the sticking problem. I think Sentry Safe has sold many of us a bill of goods…what do you think? POS! Needless to say, I’ll be taking it back to Sam’s and getting my money back, regardless of whether it’s in or out of warranty. Exactly my problem! All you need is a Rubber Mallet (or a hard fist), some WD-40 and a screwdriver. I then started looking on the web and found this post by lighthouse. Viola! The actuator fired up and it opened. Being somewhat mechanically inclined, I decided to whack on the front of the safe with my fist (didn’t think I would hurt it) after entering the code. I could hear the actuator trying to work each time I entered the code.
I first tested all four batteries with my handy-dandy battery tester and they all passed with flying colors. Since this safe can only be opened with an electronic code, this is a BAD situation! My wife recently tried to open it and, even though it agreed with the combination that was entered, the electronic opener refused to release the lock. I have a Sentry Safe that I purchased from Sam’s a year or two ago (too lazy to look it up).
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